Why Turin is Italy’s most underrated destination for a cultural getaway

Castello di Rivoli

About 40 minutes’ drive outside Turin, the Castello (castellodirivoli.org) adds another dimension to Turin’s cultural attractions. Used as the Savoy’s hunting lodge, pleasure palace and also to display art from the family collection now in the Royal Palace, it has had a chequered architectural history. A 482ft long gallery was built in the first half of the 17th century as the exhibition space for the Savoy collection. Known as the Manica Lunga (Long Sleeve) it was – arguably – the first ever purpose-built private art gallery. But the building work was never quite finished, in fact, it looks as though the end doors have been blown off. The Castello is now the leading museum of contemporary art in Italy and has a stellar collection and an outstanding programme of exhibitions.

Even if contemporary art is not always to your taste, the location of the castle with its sunny terraces overlooking the snow-capped Alps will surely heighten your aesthetic responses. Somewhere up there, Michael Caine spoke the immortal words “Hang on a minute, lads. I’ve got a great idea” as the coach teetered on the edge of the cliff.

The Cerruti Collection

Just a few minutes’ walk from the Castello is a new addition to the Turin art scene. Francesco Federico Cerruti, who died in 2015, was a secretive collector who made his money in printing Italian phone directories. He lived a modest life, but spent lavishly on buying art and furniture of the highest quality for his modest villa in Rivoli (castellodirivoli.org/en/cerruti-collection). It is now open to the public (visits must be pre-arranged) and while the aesthetic is extremely eccentric, there is no doubting the quality of the paintings. They range from medieval altar pieces to works by Cezanne, Modigliani, Paul Klee, Egon Schiele, Giorgio de Chirico and Francis Bacon. Book visits on the Castello website.

Artissima

If you are a buyer rather than a viewer, you might want to consider a visit in November, when Artissima (artissima.art/en), Turin’s annual contemporary art fair is held in the OVAL Lingotto Fiere conference centre near the Lingotto building.